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Westchester Dining | Mount Kisco

In a World of Tastes, No Easy Labels

NO WHITE RICE The menu at Myong Gourmet is Asian-influenced, but wanders far.Credit...Joyce Dopkeen for The New York Times

ON my first visit to Myong Gourmet, my guests and I were greeted by a round of amuse bouches: smoked duck with pickled radish and, I believe, crème fraîche. The tastes blended wonderfully, but what was the orientation? French? Asian? New American? Next came a bowl of warm pita wedges matched with three spreads: edamame and tofu, some kind of pickled vegetable, and fruit and tofu. Again, delicious. And again, I felt a little unmoored.

It isn’t easy to categorize Myong Gourmet — but that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The owner, Myong Feiner, a self-taught chef, was born in South Korea and is clearly influenced by Asian tastes. The miso-marinated black cod is a savory example. There is a flavorful kalbi, the traditional Korean grilled short rib, and a knockout appetizer called black Asian noodles — black beans, sautéed pork and vegetables — that tasted like it came out of some deep, magical forest. But you can also order a rib-eye with Madeira sauce, homemade tagliatelle, grilled salmon or even a burger.

The unifying factors are freshness, a healthful approach (very little cream or butter is used) and strong attention to detail. The cod is accompanied by an evocative forbidden rice, and you’ll find quinoa and many gluten-free offerings on the menu — but no white rice. The veal chop is hormone-free, the “naturally raised” chicken breast is from Murray Farm. Even though much of the food is rich in taste, it won’t leave you feeling weighed down.

Myong Gourmet opened in Mount Kisco in February as an expanded version of Ms. Feiner’s popular takeout shop, Myong Private Label Gourmet, which has been incorporated into the new space. Ms. Feiner brought in an executive chef, Ryan Paonessa, who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and worked at Aureole and Tavern on the Green in Manhattan, and the two have put together an ambitious menu. Sometimes they overreach — the aptly named drunken shrimp was a blur of tastes including jalapeño tequila, pineapple, chayote and pear — but they’re also turning out some terrific, memorable dishes.

Appetizers are particularly well executed, and you can make a meal by ordering several. The lobster shooters were little glasses of complex sweetness, combining bites of lobster meat with mango chunks and avocado in a miso kefir broth. Ricotta basil ravioli was perfectly cooked and prepared with a smoky prosciutto, fresh spring mushrooms and a hearty spinach pesto. Lamb sliders were served on tasty semi-sweet rolls with coleslaw and curry dressing.

Unfortunately, the service at Myong Gourmet is not nearly as sophisticated as the food. Those sliders were so good I asked to take home the one I had left over. But when the waiter removed our plates, he slipped and dropped the burger on the floor and spilled kefir broth all over my coat. He was certainly apologetic — but he never replaced the slider or offered to have my coat cleaned.

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The lamb sliders at Myong Gourmet.Credit...Joyce Dopkeen for The New York Times

Of course, accidents happen. But I witnessed several incidents of rushed clumsiness both times I went (water spilled, dishes dropped, silverware precariously propped on plates and taken away over diners’ heads). It creates an anxiety that is antithetical to the warm, relaxed look of the dining room.

The restaurant has been open only a few months, and I’m hoping the service kinks will be smoothed out. There are intriguing plans, including an expanded wine list that includes more high-end offerings, and a seasonally shifting menu. I’ll be back to check it all out, because at Myong’s, the menu seems best defined by welcome surprises.

Myong Gourmet

487 Main Street

Mount Kisco

(914) 241-6333

plgourmet.com

WORTH IT

THE SPACE Three spaces, really: refrigerated-takeout area; small cafe for lighter fare; and an industrial-chic dining room, with white tablecloths, dramatic paintings and windows looking out at plenty of greenery. Wheelchair accessible.

THE CROWD Lots of regulars, many of whom chat with the owner as she circulates through the dining room. Children are welcome, but it’s a mostly adult crowd.

THE BAR Not a sit-down space. About 20 wines are routinely offered by the glass ($8 to $16) and customers can request a glass from any bottle on the menu (thanks to a sophisticated preservation system). Tasty specialty drinks include the blackberry Bellini ($10).

THE BILL Entrees, $16 to $42. Major credit cards accepted.

WHAT WE LIKED Lobster shooters, ricotta basil ravioli, lamb sliders, black Asian noodles; kalbi (Korean grilled short ribs), miso-marinated black cod, bibimbap, branzino; brownies, carrot cake (special).

IF YOU GO Lunch: Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Dinner: Monday to Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m.; Sunday brunch, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Reservations recommended on weekends. Parking lot on site.

RATINGS Don’t Miss, Worth It, O.K., Don’t Bother.

A version of this article appears in print on  , Section WE, Page 8 of the New York edition with the headline: In a World of Tastes, No Easy Labels. Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe

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