Seattle has a huge number of Filipino expats, among them such great home cooks they don’t tend to open restaurants. Thank goodness then that Inay’s son Ernie bucked the trend, in the fourth (or so) iteration of the cafeteria restaurant that bears his mother’s name. This one on Beacon Hill has a nice long menu, venturing into other Pacific cuisines but performing best on the adobos and pancits of the Philipines. The breaded tilapia in gingered coconut milk is a star. Come on Friday and you might catch a drag show; the homespun enterprise of one of the waiters who performs lipsticky lipsynchs of the great divas.