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36 Hours

36 Hours in Richmond, Va.

Gallery5 showcases local art and is housed a mid-19th-century building that used to be Virginia’s oldest fire station. Credit...Susana Raab for The New York Times

AS the heart of the old Confederacy, Richmond, Va., watched with envy as other cities like Atlanta and Charlotte became the economic and cultural pillars of the New South. But Richmond may finally be having its big moment: a building boom in the last few years has seen century-old tobacco warehouses transformed into lofts and art studios. Chefs are setting up kitchens in formerly gritty neighborhoods, and the city’s buttoned-up downtown suddenly has life after dusk, thanks to new bars, a just-opened hotel and a performing arts complex, Richmond CenterStage. Richmond is strutting with confidence, moving beyond its Civil War legacy and emerging as a new player on the Southern art and culinary scene.

Friday

5 p.m.
1) SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

The tattooed artsy crowd may have moved on, but serious shoppers and people watchers are still drawn to Carytown’s half-mile stretch of boutiques, vintage clothing stores and cafes. This colorful strip is Richmond at its most eclectic, from floppy-haired musicians, to gay hipsters with pierced eyebrows, to mothers from the West End suburbs pushing strollers. Check out local T-shirt designs at the Need Supply Company (3010 West Cary Street; 804-355-5880; www.needsupply.com). Peruse the retro ball gowns, tiaras and cigarette cases at Bygones (2916 West Cary Street; 804-353-1919; www.bygonesvintage.com). Or seek Japanese anime, underground graphic novels and comics at Chop Suey Books (2913 West Cary Street; 804-422-8066; www.chopsueybooks.com).

8 p.m.
2) FRESH DIRECT

The locavore food movement was late in coming to Richmond, but residents have taken to it in a big way at the perpetually packed, year-old Mezzanine (3433 West Cary Street; 804-353-2186; www.mezzanine3433.com). The head chef, Todd Johnson, is particular about his produce, meats and seafood, handpicking the Virginia farmers and fishermen he buys from. The ever-changing, seven-foot-tall chalkboard menu recently included green curry quinoa with gingered bok choy and oyster mushrooms ($16) and tempura soft-shell crabs in a tomato and cucumber broth ($25). A downside: the outdoor patio looks out over a pair of glowing golden arches across the street.

10 p.m.
3) CASH BAR

Richmonders used to flee downtown for the suburbs come 6 p.m. But these days, the capital’s young politicos gather at Bank (1005 East Main Street; 804-648-3070; www.bankandvault.com), a century-old bank that’s been transformed into a swank night spot, complete with a bar made with the building’s original marble, a martini lounge in the old president’s office and a cavernous downstairs club, Vault. Eavesdrop at the bar and you might pick up some juicy political gossip about Gov. Tim Kaine.

Saturday

10:30 a.m.
4) A ‘HARLEM’ RENAISSANCE

The historic African-American neighborhood of Jackson Ward was so prosperous after the Civil War that it was known as the Harlem of the South. Then came a long decline that left its streets riddled with empty storefronts. Of course, it wasn’t long before artists moved in. Now, P.B.R.-swilling students from nearby Virginia Commonwealth University descend for First Friday gallery hops. For an art walk of your own, start at Gallery5 (200 West Marshall Street; 804-644-0005; www.gallery5arts.org), in a mid-19th-century building that used to be Virginia’s oldest fire station. Also worthwhile is Quirk (311 West Broad Street; 804-644-5450; www.quirkgallery.com), which has offbeat offerings, as its name suggests.

Noon
5) TASTE OF HAVANA

Don’t expect to find amazing ethnic food in Richmond — this is fried okra country, not an immigrant town. The one exception is Kuba Kuba (1601 Park Avenue; 804-355-8817; www.kubakuba.info), a hole-in-the-wall cafe founded by a Cuban émigré, Manny Mendez. The dishes are authentic up to a point — pressed Cuban sandwiches with roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese and mustard ($6.95) share the menu with Spanish paellas ($17.95) — but Richmonders line up just as much for the straight-out-of-Havana vibe. The waitresses sway to Cuban music, and Kuba Kuba also doubles as a bodega: after lunch, load up on Café Bustelo and Our Lady of Guadalupe candles.

2 p.m.
6) THREE-SIDED WAR

Even if you are not a history buff, a trip to Richmond wouldn’t be complete without learning something about the Civil War, still known by a few die-hards as the War of Northern Aggression. The American Civil War Center at Historic Tredegar (500 Tredegar Street; 804-780-1865; www.tredegar.org; $8 entry) takes a less pro-Southern approach. The interactive museum, opened three years ago, tells the story of the war from three perspectives: that of the Union, the Confederacy and the slaves. The museum itself is a giant relic, housed in the old 1861 Tredegar Gun Foundry, a major munitions factory during the war.

3:30 p.m.
7) INTO THE TREES

Need to shake off post-museum torpor? How about maneuvering through the trees like Tarzan? Across the river in the Stratford Hills section, trained instructors at Riverside Outfitters (6836 Old Westham Road; 804-560-0068; www.riversideoutfitters.net) lead groups on tree-climbing expeditions along the James River that include harnessed walks along limbs 40 feet above the ground and zip-lines. They claim it’s easy enough for a 6-year-old to do it — albeit on smaller trees. The rates vary, but start at $150 for two hours for these five or fewer.

7 p.m.
8) HAUTE HOME COOKIN’

Trust Steve Jurina, owner of the industrial-chic bistro LuLu’s (21 North 17th Street; 804-343-9771, www.lu-lusrichmond.com), to get comfort food right. He was the longtime chef at Millie’s Diner, revered by locals for its nap-inducing Sunday brunches and down-home atmosphere. LuLu’s is a gussied-up version of Millie’s for the polo-shirt-wearing yuppies who’ve snapped up lofts in the renovated tobacco warehouses in Shockoe Bottom, one of Richmond’s most historic neighborhoods. Arrive early to grab a bamboo booth, and start with the tasty crab and lobster fritters ($11) before moving on to the High-Falootin’ Mac and Cheese, made with white Cheddar, Parmesan and Gorgonzola and topped with grilled shrimp ($20). For over-the-top gluttony, order the deep-dish chocolate and peanut butter pie ($5) for dessert.

9 p.m.
9) TUNES AND TATTS

Escape Shockoe Bottom before the clubs start to fill up — it is party central for drunken college kids on weekends. A less raucous spot can be found uptown at the Camel (1621 West Broad Street; 804-353-4901; www.thecamel.org), which is establishing itself as the premier venue to catch up-and-coming Southern rock and bluegrass bands, acoustic singer-songwriters, and jazz and funk musicians. If it’s an off night, go down the street to Empire (727 West Broad Street; 804-344-3323), a dive bar near V.C.U. where sleeve tattoos are part of the informal dress code.

Sunday

11 a.m.
10) BATTLE OF THE BRUNCH

There’s a new war being waged at the Black Sheep (901 West Marshall Street; 804-648-1300; www.theblacksheeprva.com), a cozy restaurant with barn-wood wainscoting and church pews for benches. Brave eaters have attacked all six two-foot-long subs, each named after a Civil War-era ship, in what the menu calls “The War of Northern Ingestion.” Served on French baguettes, the CSS Virginia is topped with fried chicken livers, shredded cabbage and apples ($12), while the USS Brooklyn has jerk barbecued chicken and banana ketchup ($14). A warning: each behemoth can feed at least two.

1 p.m.
11) ART FACTORY

Once an industrial wasteland across the river, the Manchester neighborhood has emerged as an arts district with more loft apartments. The anchor is the former MeadWestvaco packaging plant, which has been turned into a huge art complex with 75 studios and three galleries. Stroll through the mazelike Art Works (320 Hull Street; 804-291-1400; www.artworksrichmond.com), where artists sell their works, many for under $200. Then head to Legend Brewery (321 West Seventh Street; 804-232-3446; www.legendbrewing.com), order a pint of Oktoberfest or the other seven brews on the deck, and take in the view of a city making up for lost time.

THE BASICS

Delta, JetBlue, US Airways and other carriers offer nonstop flights between New York and Richmond. Nonstop round-trip fares later this month start at $147, according to a recent Web search.

A car is the best option for getting around; buses run infrequently and don’t reach every part of the city.

The Jefferson Hotel (101 West Franklin Street; 800-424-8014; www.jeffersonhotel.com) defined luxury when it opened in 1895, and it hasn’t lost any of its luster, with its stained-glass domed skylight and 262 rooms decorated with reproduction Southern antiques. Doubles from $235 a night.

Housed in an old department store, the Hilton Garden Inn Richmond (501 East Broad Street; 804-344-4300; hiltongardeninn.hilton.com) reopened in February following a two-year renovation. Doubles from $99 a night.

A version of this article appears in print on  , Section TR, Page 10 of the New York edition with the headline: 36 Hours : Richmond . Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe

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