Big Al's Deli satisfies big appetites

Even though Alfonso Anderson opened his little eatery on the fringes of North Nashville's Salemtown just last year, it feels like it's always been there. There are a few reasons why that's the case. The building is from another time — weathered cinderblock, clapboard and concrete floor, a curious grouping of framed window panels on either side of the doorway, a painted-over metal door with the impression of a 1970s RC Cola logo still barely visible.

More striking is the ambience of the place. Big Al's Deli has captured a cozy neighborhood vibe that harkens to another era, with straightforward country cookin' — and the stamp of Big Al's personality.

The small interior encourages community. Share seating at one of three large tables, each covered with a different plastic picnic cloth, all surrounded by a hodge-podge of chairs, or at a granite counter overlooking the open kitchen. Shelves line one wall and window, sparsely stocked with market items that, if not sold, might be put to use in the kitchen. At midday, a line forms from the entry to the cashier, as hungry customers gather, greeting Big Al and one another. All are eager for a good meal, and Big Al is eager to deliver. The radio plays '90s hits; the grunge sound of Nirvana seems incongruent, but maybe not? "Here we are now, entertain us."

Breakfast of champions

At Big Al's Deli, the focus is on home-cooked breakfast and lunch, served six days a week. Mornings start out hearty and continue in like fashion throughout the day. Strips of bacon and sausage patties are fried crisp. Fresh cut, skin-on hash brown potatoes are truly browned with a generous handful of diced onion. Eggs are cooked however you like 'em: over easy, stacked on a massive biscuit with bacon, sausage and American cheese (that's the Bauser biscuit) or whipped into a fluffy omelet.

Thick slices of Texas toast-style bread are dipped in beaten eggs and milk and griddled, yielding pillow-soft French toast, served with pats of margarine and table syrup. It all tastes good in a retro-diner kind of way.

Step over to the small table across the room, and pump your cup of coffee, or grab an orange juice out of the cooler and settle down for a breakfast that will power you through the day.

Power lunch

Lunch rotates meat-n-two selections (Big Al's Deli is more of a diner than a deli!) where on given days you'll find meat loaf, fried chicken or catfish peppered with a few innovative dishes, like Raspberry-Chipotle Chicken, or Chicken Fried Banana Pork Loin. Island influences prevail; jerk spices on the roast chicken (your choice of white or dark quarters) form a background layer of flavor over which Al slathers the smoky fruit sauce. Ripe banana is mashed onto the pork, then battered and fried, the crunch encasing the meat and fruit surprise.

Mixed skillet beans feature navy beans and black beans simmered together in savory-sweet sauce. Green beans are cooked in a more "heart-healthy" manner — plenty of onions but no ham hock. We especially like the smashed potatoes — creamy red-skinned new potatoes in a rough churn of butter, milk and chopped green onions.

Al makes some mean chili — traditional with beef is good, but if the white chicken chili is listed on the blackboard, don't pass it by! Tender chunks of chicken and white beans are served in a silky cumin-scented broth, spiked with onions, garlic and a kick of heat. Each community table is laden with an array of seasonings: Louisiana, Caribbean, green chili and habañero hot sauces, vinegars and pickled peppers to bring whatever extra intensity you'd like to the bowl. Enjoy your chili with a side of rice and hot corn cakes for a satisfying wintertime meal.

Don't forget dessert. You might be too full after polishing off one of Big Al's heaping plates, but check out the little refrigerated case for a treat to go. We took home a hunk of Banana-Butterscotch Bread Pudding. Gently warmed, it is rich and delicious. There's also a basket by the checkout counter, a last temptation before you pay up and leave, filled with his dense bittersweet chocolate brownies.

For a little tuck-away joint, Big Al's has all the right stuff. The food is unpretentious, inexpensive and tasty, served with a neighborly smile.

BIG AL'S DELI

1828 Fourth Ave. N., Nashville

615-242-8118; www.bigbigalsdeli.com

Hours: 6 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Saturday; closed Sundays

Reservations: not accepted

Payment: major credit cards accepted

Alcohol: no

Food: Southern/soul

Cost: Breakfast: $1.50-$5.75 Lunch: $5-$7

Parking: on street