Getting called “doll” by our waitress didn’t surprise us. Hearing a diner shriek “Girl!” at his companions — none of them girls — didn’t surprise us. Even the statuesque drag queen who sashayed by in a chartreuse leotard didn’t surprise us.
What did surprise us at KTCHN, the glossy eatery attached to the Out NYC hotel at the far-west tip of 42nd St., was the food.
Hearing the place was operated by the crew from Eatery, a forgettable Hell’s Kitchen establishment, did not raise hopes. Neither did its “upscale comfort food” tag, which usually connotes overpriced mac ‘n’ cheese or reworkings of animal parts.
But the place delivers. Chef Dale Schnell’s plates are mostly cleverly conceived, thoughtfully composed and complex without getting cute.
Aside from a complimentary dish of Tapioca Crisps, a flavorless riff on those oily Japanese snack crackers, the starters revealed a kitchen in control. The hit of our table was Smoked Bacon ($14), a deceptively named but beautifully presented cube of luscious pork belly served with creamy polenta and slightly crunchy fried artichoke — smart accompaniments that absorbed the plate’s heady flavors.
Another risky-sounding appetizer, Beef Carpaccio ($12), was smashing — literally. Pristine ruby meat, pounded tender, gets amped up with a lemon marinade, sea salt and pepper that teased earthiness from garnishes of fresh asparagus and intense Valle D’aosta Fontina cheese. Even Arugula Salad ($11) got sassy, with sweet pickled watermelon and radish cubes punching their way through the dour greens.
Entrées stumbled a bit, especially after such promising openers. Duck Breast ($28) brought six stringy pieces of pinkish meat atop an inert pile of grilled shallots, fava beans and oily potato cubes. Plump, sweet gooseberries alongside seemed like an afterthought, and the “lavender crisp” on top may be the world’s most boring cracker.
A 7-ounce Black Angus Filet ($34) made no such blunders. Perfectly proportioned, pinkish and juicy, it was expertly cooked medium-rare as ordered. The gorgonzola-walnut ravioli on top could’ve been more al dente, but oozed decadence. Baby spinach, as if wearing a halo, made a virtuous accompaniment.
The menu’s best value might have been its most basic offering: a bounteous-looking Cheeseburger ($17) on a pillowy potato roll with beautiful ripe tomatoes, Boston lettuce and airy, elegant Parmesan shoestring fries. Spicy homemade ketchup cranked up the heat enough to complement the meat. A miniature Mason jar bore the pickles: tiny marinated cauliflower, cherry tomato and red onion. It was a sweet and clever little gesture.
Desserts took an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink approach meant to convey a spirit of kooky too-muchness. They succeeded. Our server winked that the Chocolate Bombe ($9) was, in fact, “the bomb.” Along with its insane pop-art construction, the plate somehow managed to harmonize. There was — deep breath — milk chocolate mousse, passion-fruit marshmallow, salted pretzel, passion-fruit sauce and chocolate sauce topped with a grilled marshmallow.
Too plain for you? It’s also served with passion-fruit sorbet and dark chocolate ice cream. Likewise, a polite-sounding hazelnut mousse turned out to include a pound-cake base, peach consommé, peach slices, white chocolate and white-plum sorbet. It’s a mad-scientist combo that came together beautifully.
Espresso from the generally reliable roaster La Colombe — charmingly misidentified by our cheerful server as “Lacombe” — tasted thin and mousy. The staff also couldn’t identify where KTCHN got its delicious bread (Tom Kat and Eli’s, FYI) and neglected a minor request about divvying the bill. Weirdly, the restaurant remained half-empty through our visits, though we were turned down for the 7:30 slots we’d requested.
But good humor and enthusiasm made up for minor missteps. So did fair pricing and a refreshing frankness. Instead of upselling, our server steered us away from a pricy merlot to a more gently priced, and appropriate, cabernet. How often does that happen? Even better, the wine pours here were generous, and markups sane.
The room’s divided in two. Avoid the back, which felt like a conference room at an extended-stay hotel in Des Moines. Instead, grab a table next to one of the giant picture windows overlooking 42nd St. from the handsome front room. It’s an architect’s wet dream of glass, wood, formica, stainless steel, marble, Lucite and God knows what else that somehow coalesced into a sleek and sexy space. You’ll catch a nonstop parade of hotel guests and partygoers en route to one of the weekly shindigs at XL, the Out’s nightclub — and, if you’re lucky, a drag queen or two.
KTCHN
Website: ktchnnyc.com
In short: Gay hotel’s eatery surprises with solid fare, square value.
Don’t miss: Smoked Bacon ($14), Cheeseburger ($17).
Pass on: Duck Breast ($28).
Suggestion: Opt for a glass tables near the huge picture windows overlooking 42nd St.
SIDE DISH
Run, rabbit, run
If you’re really lucky, rabbit terrine ($12) will appear on the menu at M. Wells Dinette (22-25 Jackson Ave., Long Island City, 718-784-2084, momaps1.org/about/mwells/) the day of your visit to PS1, the cult eatery’s new home. The terrine is a stunning mashup of bunny, bacon, cognac-infused prunes, pistachio purée and spices.
Smart cookie
Delicious black-olive shortbread cookies ($2) at Taboonette (30 E. 13th St., 212-510-7881, taboonette.com) bring just the right balance of sweet and savory.
Coffee estate
Tip o’ the cup to Angelina at Toby’s Estate Coffee (125 N. 6th St., Brooklyn, 347-437-6160, tobysestate.com) for the complex espresso she pulled with Toby’s own Bedford Blend of Costa Rican Margarita, Colombian La Piramide, and Honduran La Atilio beans. The final product was assertive, smooth and sweet.
mkaminer@nydailynews.com