Chicago
Chicago is a town that likes big restaurants with swagger, moderate prices, and plenty of TVs in the lounge. Epic delivers all of the above: an expansive downstairs bar, a dramatic brick-faced dining room with twenty-foot windows, lumber tabletops, and a three-thousand-square-foot roof terrace for late night, all connected by a three-story industrial staircase. So far, so good. What helps set Epic apart is chef Stephen Wambach's generous hand in the kitchen here — flavors are big, portions are huge, and only vegetarians walk out hungry. Typical of Wambach's ideas is the plate of ravioli stuffed with braised wild boar, foie gras, and Swiss chard — not a dish you'll want to share. Octopus comes seared and crispy with snap peas and kumquats, and the veal tenderloin is wrapped with silky Serrano ham and served with fava beans and Parmesan. This is big Chicago food, tamed to suit Americans' growing desire to eat better-quality food crafted by soulful chefs and served in a comfortable room. Now if only they'd get rid of the TVs.
112 West Hubbard Street; 312-222-4940; epicrestaurant-chicago.com
