First, that name. “Front Toward Enemy” was engraved on WWII-era M18 land mines, the kind you can control and fire. If you didn’t want to get shredded, you’d listen up.
The action’s considerably less dangerous at Front Toward Enemy, a clubby new gastropub on the former site of low-rent Hooters knockoff Canz. But following orders is still a good strategy. At least it was with our smart servers. Their savvy recommendations spotlighted the kitchen’s skill on a menu heavy on meat and fish.
We were grateful for their intelligence on grilled octopus ($10) and Long Island fish cake ($10). Usually a default appetizer for uninspired kitchens, octopus here gets simple, stellar treatment. It’s grilled so there’s just enough chew, and infused with tang from chorizo that shares the plate. Giant capers bring sharp accents.
Floating in a deep bowl of delicate, mushroomy creamed spinach, the fish cake folds husky salmon and cod chunks into a puck of rich, crispy breading. We’ve had fish cakes that tasted like flour Frisbees. This one actually rings with ocean notes.
Pan-roasted chicken breast ($18), like those M18s, is da bomb. Front Toward Enemy’s kitchen somehow coaxes complexity from soporific components. The bird’s firm and juicy, the potatoes rich and a cabbage-bacon shred-up tastes both meaty and light. A pool of Granny Smith puree makes an addictive condiment.
Unfortunately, braised lamb shoulder ($19) falls flat. Clever geometric plating puts the meat in a circular mound and potato gratin a perfect rectangle, with broccoli rabe a jagged green barrier. But the lamb lacks depth or complexity and even the normally assertive veg lacks edge. Wan watercress salad ($5), ordered as a side, looks tired. The honey-mustard dressing is more like monotonous mayonnaise.
Desserts are worth the splurge in calories. And at $7, they’re an outright bargain. Indeed, with all entrees priced less than $20, Front Toward Enemy delivers terrific value, especially for food this confident.
In a little Mason jar, chocolate pudding ($7) layers light and dark chocolate under a pillow of caramel and whipped cream. This is irresistible. Fresh berries ($7) sound virtuous, but they’re actually prepared with sugar and doused with raspberry syrup. Delicious and refreshing, but not the calorie-conscious course we’d hoped for.
The room here’s as handsome as the food — all dark reclaimed wood, ironwork and stark hanging lightbulbs. There’s a long black bar. Scott Teague, a venerated mixologist of the Queens bar Dutch Kills who’s now a partner here, slings signature concoctions like the Bow & Arrow ($12). It’s a potent, piquant mix of mescal, bourbon, lime, pineapple juice and cinnamon bark.
You won’t be treading carefully after that one. Luckily, the worst hazard you’ll encounter at Front Toward Enemy is getting hooked on the place.
mkaminer@nydailynews.com
