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Westchester

A Contemporary Twist on Traditional French

FACED with today’s dining trends toward grazing, fusion cuisine (particularly Asian), and the use of local and organic foods in a lighter style of cooking, most traditional French restaurants have been forced to beat ’em, join ’em or simply close up shop. Jacques Loupiac, owner of La Panetière in Rye, has decided to join ’em, gingerly, and his new direction is clear.

Like provincial figurines and ubiquitous roosters, lavish multicourse meals may have had their day. The décor at La Panetière has been pared down somewhat, and the look is more contemporary, dependent on dramatic spurts of brilliant color — in table napkins and floral arrangements — against stark white tablecloths. Special menus now offer small plates: half-portions at half price at lunch; and a two-course meal at dinner.

Although dishes are still listed mainly in French — a holdout that can’t possibly last— Mr. Loupiac increasingly gives credit to American products; we have boeuf du Kansas, agneau du Colorado, homard du Maine and canard de Long Island. Assimilation may be slow, but this French restaurant seems to be recognizing its American heart.

A beginning of fresh petit pain with butter from a cool gray crock and a tiny lagniappe — perhaps a thimble of squash soup — whet the appetite for the artistically arranged dishes that followed. Juicy partially boned quail cooked under a brick arrived on a bed of frisée laced with sweet-tart citrus sauce, the faultless arrangement punctuated by a poached quail egg and a small mound of caramelized endive. The sweet and the tart were employed brilliantly again in relishes that countered the richness of duck terrine scattered with bits of black truffle.

Set as though on a painter’s palette, a seafood assortment made a delightfully light and refreshing starter: a fresh oyster, a bit of caviar, smoked salmon tartar and tuna, a hint of wasabi on a small salad of greens. With these top-notch starters to choose from, bland bison carpaccio could be skipped.

The names of a couple of appetizers were misleading. A lasagna included no pasta but layers of excellent forest mushrooms. A special ravioli, also bereft of pasta, brought crab meat sandwiched between two translucent slices of turnip. (True, ravioli is derived from the Italian word for turnip, but this is not something most diners would pick up on.)

A row of chanterelles gave earthy support to an entree of grilled Kansas beef, the smooth tenderloin full of meaty flavor; and roasted garlic flan and baby fennel lent their soothing yet distinctive flavors to silky riblets from a rack of tender Colorado lamb ($4 surcharge).

Our only complaint about superb Dover sole with beurre blanc, melted shallots and boiled potatoes was the classic presentation; the white on white effect needed some color relief. In general, colorful vegetable garnishes were absent in the design of many entrees. Big scallops were rich and clean in a fragrant sauce thickened with mascarpone. Poached lobster carried a surcharge of $4, but the hefty chunk was carefully poached to the precise tender moment. Only black sea bass (bar) was overcooked and mealy.

In the past, we’ve always enjoyed the clean, cool fruitiness that a freshly made sherbet imparts. Recent, more substantial indulgences have included a comforting warm crepe filled with molten chocolate and an elaborate, rum-raisin-flavored tart (beaudinardise) deliciously paired with icy espresso crystals topped with warm mocha foam. Other desserts met with less success: a pear needed further poaching; a chocolate “velvet” book cover held layers of hardened chocolate mousse; and the citrus of winter sun (soleil d’hiver) was stingingly astringent.

If changes here are geared to woo a larger pool of American diners, the menu could be more user friendly. Few diners know or care about prep details like brunoise, matignon, emulsions or mousselines. The proof has always been in the eating.

In this area of noisy restaurants, La Panetière offers an oasis: a hushed dining room with well-spaced tables at which diners can have and hear their own conversation. Then there’s the food: most of it carefully crafted, delicious and presented with, well, panache.

La Panetière

530 Milton Road

Rye

(914) 967-8140

www.lapanetiere.com

EXCELLENT

THE SPACE Gracious dining areas with elegantly appointed tables. Beautifully landscaped approach is handicapped accessible.

THE CROWD From dating couples to groups of seniors, all appreciative of this dining room’s low noise level. Professional service.

THE BAR Excellent cellar of French wines and a good selection of products from California. Quite a few half-bottles available.

THE BILL Lunch: Choose from small plates (half portions from the à la carte menu) or the complete three-course lunch for $25. Dinner (including an amuse-bouche and petits fours): $52 for two courses, $65 for three. A few items have a surcharge of $4 or $6.

WHAT WE LIKE Quail under brick, duck terrine, assiette de la mer, poached lobster, lasagna of forest mushrooms, coquilles St.-Jacques, rack of lamb, Dover sole, grilled beef tenderloin, crepe with chocolate, beaudinardise, sherbet.

IF YOU GO Lunch: Tuesday to Friday and Sunday, noon to 2:30 p.m. Dinner: Monday to Saturday, 6 to 9:30 p.m.; Sunday, 5 to 8:30 p.m.

Reviewed Jan. 13, 2008

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