Will the world ever tire of the Irish pub? Doubt it.
There may be a bit of tokenism in it, but the Irish way of drinking in a warm and welcoming, wooden-walled pub hangs on as a grand tradition in many countries.
These days, a few bar owners are stepping it up, moving the well-worn Irish pub concept in interesting directions. Katie Mullen’s Irish Pub and Restaurant (1550 Court Place) is one of these, though it’s still rooted firmly in the familiar traditions.
Anchoring one corner of the new downtown Sheraton Hotel, formerly the Adam’s Mark Hotel, Katie Mullen’s is a more upscale version of the neighborhood pub. The post- work crowd is more suits and Blackberries than jeans and beat-up Motorolas.
The staff is friendly, though, and the atmosphere isn’t snobbish or stuffy. In fact, it’s downright loud. So loud, that it’s impossible to hear, say, an Elvis Costello tune without stepping out to the vast patio.
But Katie Mullen’s can’t help it if the place is packed, beers are flowing and the downtown workers are blowing off some steam.
If they’re smart, they’re eating, too. Katie Mullen’s menu is intensely Irish, but that doesn’t mean bland corned beef and cabbage.
Instead, the restaurant offers a range of appetizers, sandwiches, entrees and, curiously, pasta, all with a little Irish kiss. Take the sliders, for example: They’re filled with pork sausage, not beef, and nestled on a potato roll.
Owners Paul Maye and Tom Cronin are transplanted from the auld sod, so there’s a nice mix of established Irish favorites, too. Two good ones are “bangers and champ” (sausages and mashed potatoes) and boxty, hearty potato pancakes with savory fillings.
Of course, conversation and conviviality are the main attractions at an Irish pub, and Katie Mullen’s has lots of room for both.
The gigantic space used to be the Supreme Court bar, and its new look is a vast improvement. The pub is divided into four sections — the Victorian bar, the Cottage, the Pharmacy and the Celtic bar — each with its own personality.
The whole place is pretty slick, though, favoring touches of modern Ireland over the usual array of Guinness posters and shamrock-y knickknacks.
Katie Mullen’s is most reminiscent of Fado (1735 19th St.), a chain Irish pub that prides itself on authenticity. Much like Fado, Katie Mullen’s imported huge chunks of its decor directly from Ireland. Both pubs are dark, host live entertainment and are a little pricey.
Still, there’s likely room for two upmarket Irish places in Denver, especially when both so fully embrace the concept.
The reign of the Irish pub continues. Slainte.
The stuff of legend.
Carl Cox started spinning records when he was 15, in 1977. Known for working three decks during his sets, Cox became a fixture of England’s club and rave scenes with a mix of house, electro and especially techno. He’s a legend.
In his career, Cox has explored producing and major music festivals, and now he’s on his way to Denver. On Thursday, Cox will preside over the dance floor at Beta (1909 Blake St.). It’s going to be sweaty.
Presale tickets are $10 at groovetickets.com.
Esther’s day.
Purim celebrates the Jews’ escape from a plot by the Persian vizier Haman, thanks to a good woman named Esther.
What better reason to have a drink? Raise a toast with Birthright Israel NEXT at the “Get Groggy” Purim party on Saturday.
Dress up as something that begins with a letter in “Purim,” get in line for karaoke, and knock a few back from the open bar.
The party starts at 7 p.m. Saturday at 2185 Broadway. Admission is $5 at the door.
