Dining Out: Suzie’s Grill

By TED POWERS, Food Editor
You don’t have to be kosher to eat at Suzie’s Grill. In fact, you just have to be hungry. Suzie’s really is all about good food, mostly from Israeli, Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Persian recipes – all of which are served fresh, hot and in large, Texas-size portions. But, if you are kosher observant, be assured that Suzie’s is glatt kosher and supervised by both the Houston Kashruth Association and Mehadrin Kashrus. And, it is mashgiach timidi (supervised full time), shomer Shabbos (closed on Shabbat) and pas Yisrael (bread baked by Jews).

I get a big kick out of Suzie’s customers. On any given day, you will find local rabbis, their families, Orthodox to Reform diners, and workers from local businesses, who want good food and lots of it. On my last visit, there was a table of what looked like four construction workers, all eating large entrees at reasonable prices. I noticed, when they were leaving, their plates were scraped clean, like my plate when I’m finished eating.

One of my favorite things at Suzie’s is rice. I don’t know of any restaurant in town that has so many choices. There is green rice (made with dill), lentil rice, cherry rice (made with dried cherries), Chinese rice (made with veggies and eggs) and of course, Persian-style white rice. Most times, you can ask Suzie for a free sample of crispy rice scraped from the bottom of the pots – where the rice is cooked. My little grandkids love this healthy treat.

I like to start my meal with hummus and babaghanoush and maybe a few Moroccan Cigars dipped in tahini. I especially like the Spinach Borekas. Matbucha is another favorite. This is a dish made with tomatoes, roasted bell peppers, garlic and chili pepper. Falafel also is a winner. Sometimes, I order the Combo Platter, which gives me a bunch of different appetizers. Of course, everything tastes better with Suzie’s pita bread.

At dinner time, I always order a salad, and Chopped Israeli Salad with tomatoes and cucumbers is my first choice. Soups are really special here. Every day there is matzah ball soup, but on some days you might find split pea, barley, and my current fave, Persian soup with lentils, garbanzos, kidney beans, pasta and topped with caramelized onions. Really delish! If you are ordering from their Mexican or Chinese menu, you may find Tortilla or Chinese Chicken soups.

I know you didn’t expect Chinese or Mexican menus, but here are a few of the dishes you might want to try: Kong Sung Sweet and Sour Chicken, Sesame Chicken, Beef and Broccoli, Lo Mein, Beef and Chicken Fajitas and enchiladas. It’s wonderful to find this kind of variety in a kosher food restaurant. Also on the menu is Baked Salmon with a choice of Moroccan or dill sauces, Grilled Steak, topped with mushrooms and onions and Lamb Chops.

Kabobs are outstanding here, and I’ve tried them all – steak, chicken, ground beef or combinations of the three. They all come with your choice of rice and a grilled tomato.

Kids love Suzie’s. Its menu has hot dogs, Chicken Fingers, pasta, meat balls and fries. Of course, you always can get them hamburgers, Shawarma and Falafel in Pita with tahini, hummus and Israeli salad.

New at Suzie’s is a buffet that you can eat in or takeout. On my last visit, there was Salisbury Steak, Chicken and Meatballs with many choices of side dishes. One side dish comes with the buffet, and you can get additional sides for just a little bit extra. Save room for dessert. They have hamantaschen for Purim, but everyday you can get tiramisu, chocolate mousse and more, all pareve.

You might want to consider takeout specials, like a 26-piece Wings Basket or 18-pieces of Chicken Fingers with fries or large orders of burgers or hot dogs. Suzie makes it convenient, with the only kosher drive-thru in the country (as far as I know!).

Susan Goldstein is the magic behind the grill. She came to New York from Iran, when she was 13, learning to cook from her mother. She does catering for all kinds of occasions. For Passover dishes, place your orders as early as possible. If you are interested in Shabbos takeout meals, there are seven menus, able to serve as few as four and up to 25 guests. They include Baked Chicken stuffed with rice, cholent, meat loaf and brisket, plus chicken soup and a choice of grilled veggies.

Suzie’s Grill is open Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Friday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. It is located at 8402 Hillcroft St. at Beechnut Street, 713-729-5741, or go to suziesgrill.com .