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Profile: Alchemy, Michael and Debi Matassa’s stylish new Hampden eatery

Above: Alchemy, a sophisticated new restaurant on “The Avenue,” in Hampden.

— FOODWISE BALTIMORE —

Dictionaries explain that Alchemists in the Renaissance worked on turning base metals into gold. And define alchemy as the process of transmuting an ordinary substance into something of greater and better value. That pretty much defines Alchemy, on 36th Street.

Chef/owner Michael Matassa and Sommelier/owner Debi Matassa transform the craft of food and wine into the art of the meal. This new restaurant on “the Avenue” is designed to please. From the Art Deco downstairs room to the French country upstairs, each detail has been attended to with the comfort and pleasure of the diner’s environment in mind. The kitchen, the wine cellar and the equipment are planned to maintain quality.

This north Baltimore venture is not the Matassas’ first establishment: the successful Fusion Grille in Harford County was their earlier enterprise. They are each highly trained professionals, both by education and experience. Chef Michael Studied at the Academy of Culinary Arts in Atlantic City and holds a Culinary Masterworks Certification. Sommelier Debi studied at the Culinary Institute of America in Napa and is a member of the Society of Wine Educators. That’s a lot of pouring, tasting and pairing.

For the Matassas, who have each held top positions at prestigious eateries,  Alchemy has been their plan for some time. When you talk with them, you easily learn that their hearts are in this place. Their work is not “by the book.” Their food is “Modern American” and yet it is by no means experimental. Rather, it’s rooted in knowledge and confidence.

The menu changes with the market. Chef Michael uses local ingredients of the highest quality, and has developed dependable resources. The wine suggestions pair well with your meal selection.

Some of Alchemy's superb tasting plates. (Photo by Francine Halvorsen)

The scallops with a sauce of vermouth and caper reduction, served with a freshly made, Provencal olive confit, bruschetta is a personal favorite, as is the seared Ahi tuna. The tuna is grilled au pointe over an avocado corn relish and served on flat bread for a bit of crunch. On another occasion, the tuna is served with braised arugula, banana salsa and soy reduction. The beet salad is composed of roasted baby golden beets, blood beets and a sliced large red beet on an orange reduction with micro greens and crumbled creamy chevre. Another flatbread is layered with grilled pancetta, tomato, mozzarella and sautéed wild shitake, crimini, and oyster mushrooms, topped with a mild pesto that doesn’t dominate the dish.

The combinations change with the best possible availability. This is a very new restaurant and I have not yet had a chance to eat a good many of the offerings. I look forward to this adventure and invite readers to visit and explore the menu. The servers are knowledgeable and will answer questions. So ask! Clearly this is a taste-driven chef, partnered with a sommelier with a taste palette to match. Relax you are in good hands.

 Alchemy co-owner (and sommelier) Debi Matassa. (Photo by Francine Halvorsen)

Alchemy co-owner — and sommelier — Debi Matassa. (Photo by Francine Halvorsen)

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lchemy co-owner and chef, Michael Matassa. (Photo by Francine Halvorsen)

Alchemy co-owner and chef, Michael Matassa. (Photo by Francine Halvorsen)

DETAILS
Alchemy on 36th
1011 West 36th Street Baltimore, MD 21211

Hours:
Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 am – 3:30 pm and 5:00 pm -10:00 pm
Friday – same, but it’s open until 11:00 pm
Saturday – 11:30 am – 4:00 pm and 5:00 pm – 11:00 pm
Sunday – 11:00am – 9:00 pm

Contact:
Phone: 410-366-1163
Website: http://www.alchemyon36.com/

Alchemy's

Alchemy's "Blue Room." (Photo by Francine Halvorsen.)

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