Restaurant Review: Pom's Signature Restaurant a delicious adventure

Anyone who enjoys creative fare knows the name of chef and entrepreneur Pom Souvannasoth, the gentleman behind the fame of the former Pom's (in San Marco), one of the first fine dining restaurants that appeared - and succeeded - in Jacksonville. Other restaurants included Old Siam, The Brasserie (with chef Guy Leroy) and now back to a supposed basic: Pom's Signature Restaurant in Tapestry Park.

I've been to all of Pom's establishments numerous times and this new iteration is different, maybe as a result of his recent partnership with a French-leaning chef. Our hostess described it as "Asian Fusion," but it is far more interesting than that description implies.

We ended up getting lucky on a recent weekend night and were able to snag one of few remaining reservations. The wine list is thoughtful and, while the sommelier provided diffident recommendations, our server handily took over where he left off. We ordered a white and started with "first flavors."

The Duck Confit Crispy Spring Rolls ($10) were my least favorite item of the night. The smoky flavor from the dark meat provided heft. Shiitake mushrooms and silver thread noodles coupled with Asian vegetables should have been enough to take this one over the top. Nonetheless, it came to the table almost cold and the unusually oil-soaked wrap was disappointing.

The Shu Mai ($11) was deliriously good, with pork belly and scallop dumplings softly steaming in a bath of duck bouillon. The dumplings were a simple bit of business, but the duck broth was gloriously light and flavorful and provided a deceptively simple setting.

Slideshow: A peek into Pom's new restaurant

Based on my past love affair with Pom's green curry Sea Bass, I almost bailed and went for the usual. Instead, I tried the Short Ribs ($29). Fantastically complex (red wine, fresh ginger) and tender ribs - with the requisite cooked-down layer of fat - were just wondrous. Almost a full carrot and stalks of crisp broccolini added to the pastoral tone.

My husband wanted to see if Pom's could elevate the typical Pad Thai and to my mind - and his - the Scallops & Prawn Pad Thai ($24) succeeded.

Crispy peanuts were served on the side and the thin rice noodles made for a darkly-hued and dense dish, with giant prawns and scallops strategically placed atop. A single stalk of green onion poked nonchalantly from the top.

Service cannot be overlooked. Our young lady was knowledgeable and prompt, while making small talk and thoughtful recommendations.

The new restaurant brings the old San Marco Pom's more to mind than his newer and/or defunct restaurants.

Instead of cool greens and browns detailing a modern and warm sensibility, an eggplant paint so deep as to be brown made the two small rooms cozy and intimate. Music was pure ambience and the art was intriguing without being overwhelming. The only jarring notes were the acoustic ceiling tiles and a sheer red curtain, both oddly out of place in an establishment with seamless execution in both the front and back of the house.

Nice to see Mr. Souvannasoth back in this type of game.

FoodwithErica@yahoo.com