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DINING OUT

DINING OUT; Stylish Spot on Yonkers' New Waterfront

DINERS looking for a dining and drinking spot with sophisticated Manhattan style and Westchester spaciousness will find both at Zuppa, the pioneering restaurant in a revitalized waterfront area that the city of Yonkers had promised for almost two decades. Without apology, Robert Leggio and his co-owners have opened well-groomed Zuppa, a standout beauty on wide Main Street that is a little unkempt now from nearby construction sites.

The reclaimed 19th-century façade nods stylishly to the past, but inside, the architecture and décor are very much of the moment. Curves soften the high, double-story space of the boxy rooms: gathered draperies dip around windows; banquettes undulate around the room. Walls in warm hues of terra cotta and a brilliant lighting scheme lend intimacy and coziness. A tall roughly bricked wall adds texture. Magnificent acoustics enhanced live music like that of Jan Leder, a terrific jazz flutist performing on one visit.

In charge of the kitchen, David Rugueiro turned out artfully trimmed and, for the most part, carefully cooked dishes. But first there was good, fresh bread to be dunked into fragrant olive oil.

It was hard to choose among a number of interesting starters. Creamy polenta baked with mascarpone came bathed in a light ragù enhanced with minced vegetables and meatballs the size of marbles -- a feast for Lilliputians. Citrus vinaigrette deliciously dressed a compatible salad with the peppery-sharp-sweet tastes of arugula, Gorgonzola, pear and filberts. Two might share another inspired merging: one of small shrimp, spinach and lardons of pancetta on thin slices of flat bread. Wafers (''carpaccio'') of spicy sausages were also more than enough for sharing. Only pale, fried pieces of calamari that needed hotter cooking oil missed the mark.

As a main dish or in a half portion for a first course, pasta dishes were worth considering, particularly thick, satisfyingly al dente perciatelli with lobster and loads of mellow roasted garlic. Almost as winning was a bowl of square-edged spaghetti alla chitarra with rings of tender squid, tomatoes and mild chilies. Prudent diners might split a portion of field-mushroom ravioli; the heady, dense filling and cream sauce added up to a surfeit of richness, a mere cavil.

Beef here was up to par, in both extra-thick, satin-fleshed porterhouse (special) covered with oyster mushrooms and, almost as savory, filet mignon. Moist and nicely trimmed pieces of organic chicken had plenty of flavor.

Except for sweet, seared sea scallops served with risotto and enriched by lobster butter, seafood items could have been more vibrant and carefully timed. Both salmon and halibut arrived in pools of excellent broth, but the fish itself was bland, and the halibut was overcooked. A fine piece of tuna, promised rare, met the same fate.

A well-chosen assortment of Italian cheeses brought a meal to a splendid close. For sweet endings, skip the ''bag'' of heavy fried dough called zeppole. Instead go for lavish panna cotta perfumed with vanilla and citrus or, equally outstanding, tiny, buttery tarts (crostatas) topped with nuts or fruits. Chocolate lovers have come to the right shop for warm chocolate cake; it oozed molten chocolate that ran into a scoop of caramel ice cream. Oh, my.

A wine list of international selections of recent vintages is decent and reasonably priced, with many bottles under $45.

Zuppa

59 Main Street,

Yonkers. (914)376-6500.

VERY GOOD

Atmosphere -- Smart, gorgeous restaurant, lounge and bar in the renovated old Gazette Press factory building. Trees strung with glittery pinlights mark the discreet entrance on a street in the first stages of revitalization. Live music Wednesday, Friday and Saturday evenings. Excellent service. Valet parking in a private lot across the street.

Recommended dishes -- Shrimp and spinach flat bread, polenta with mascarpone, arugula and Gorgonzola salad, perciatelli with lobster, spaghetti alla chitarra with baby squid, filet mignon, porterhouse steak with oyster mushrooms (special), sea scallops, organic chicken, panna cotta, crostatas, warm chocolate cake.

Prices -- Lunch, main dishes, $9 to $14. Dinner, main dishes, $18 to $28. Buffet brunch, $19 (beginning Sept. 21).

Credit cards -- Major cards accepted.

Hours -- Lunch, Mondays through Fridays, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner, Mondays through Thursdays, 5 to 10 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 5 to 11 p.m.; Sundays, 5 to 9 p.m. Brunch, Sundays, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tapas or bar menu at other times.

Reservations -- Necessary on weekends.

Wheelchair access -- Street level.

The ratings -- Excellent. Very good. Good. Satisfactory. Poor. Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.

A version of this article appears in print on  , Section WC, Page 14 of the National edition with the headline: DINING OUT; Stylish Spot on Yonkers' New Waterfront. Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe

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