Restaurant review: Thai Place in South Hadley

By FRAN BELLAMY

Not all that long ago exotic and uncommon, Thai restaurants have now become almost as numerous as Chinese, with nearly every good-sized town home to at least one.

South Hadley's now joined that list of such communities with the opening of Thai Place III.

Located on Route 202 in a building that had previously housed a traditional American eatery, the new operation is visually reminiscent of its predecessor. The change in ownership was evidently a turnkey affair, since little more than a few Southeast Asian decorative pieces differentiate the dining room from its previous incarnation.

The menu at Thai Place is extensive, offering close to 100 different entree possibilities.Thai curries are a mix-and-match affair, with seven different protein options and four curry styles offered. Specialty curries are also available, like Duck Choo Chee ($13.95), a dish flavored with boiled-down red curry paste.

A long list of house specialties is populated by choices such as Tamarind Duck ($13.95), Imperial Lamb ($11.95), and Almond Chicken ($9.50).

Thai cuisine has a rich seafood tradition, which Thai Place honors by preparing the likes of Hot Basil Calamari ($9.95), Salmon Oriental ($11.95), and a little-bit-of-everything Fisherman's Basket ($14.95).

Vegetarians will also be happy with the selection the restaurant affords them, since it incorporates possibilities like Vegetable Curry ($8.50) and a veggie version of Pad Thai ($7.50).

As is the case with most Asian cuisines, those items classified as appetizers are, for the most part, either finger food or deep-fried tidbits.

Crab Rangoon ($4.95) is available, as are Thai Chicken Wings ($4.95), and Beef Satay ($4.95).

We chose to start off with an order of Bangkok Ravioli ($4.95). Crispy mini-dumplings fashioned from spring roll wrappers, the ravioli enclosed a savory filling in which chicken dark meat, green onion, and ginger were the dominant players.

Deep-fried and served with a sweetened soy sauce dip, the ravioli were much to our liking.

A second appetizer choice, Soft-shell Crab Tempura ($6.95), was equally enjoyable. Cut-up soft-shell crab, broccoli florets, and wedges of squash had each been batter dipped, then fried to produce a light-flavored, delicate coating.

Cashew Nut Chicken ($9.50) is one of the house specialties at Thai Place, and it exemplifies the stylistic differences between the Chinese restaurant food we're all used to and the sort of Thai cookery the restaurant practices.

The array of ingredients involved -- sliced chicken, onions, pineapple, mushrooms, and green onions -- is typical of both traditions, but the presentation wasn't.

Instead of a glossy, cornstarch-thickened sauce, the cashew nut chicken was moistened only by its own cooking juices, the flavor of those juices lightly seasoned with a dash of Thai fish sauce.

The plate lacked the eye appeal of comparable Chinese creations, and it seemed bland tasting as well.

Pad Thai ($7.50) is a dish that's emblematic of Thai cuisine, so naturally there are countless opinions as to how it should look and taste.

The version we sampled at Thai Place contained all the requisite elements -- shrimp, chicken, bean sprouts, noodles, and egg -- but the flavor complexity we associate with a superior pad Thai wasn't there. Instead, sweetness seemed to dominate.

Thai Place III has both beer and wine available, including instances of each imported from Thailand. Hot tea, soft drinks, and the like are also served.

The restaurant offers several desserts -- Ice Cream ($3.50), Fried Banana ($4), and Thai Place Apple Cake ($4).

We'd heard good things about the Bangkok Lemon Cake ($4) Thai Place prepares, but our dinner had been so drawn out by the disorganized service that we decided to pass on dessert altogether.

At lunch Thai Place III offers reduced pricing and portion sizes on many of its most popular dishes. Rice, an extra cost option at dinner, is included with lunch entrees.

There are also Thai Place Restaurants in Sturbridge and Putnam, CT.

Name: Thai Place III
Address: 480 Granby Road (Route 202), South Hadley
Phone: (413) 533-9231
Hours: Monday through Friday 11:30 A.M. to 9 P.M.; and Saturday and Sunday, noon to 9 P.M.
Entree Prices: $7.50 - $15.95
Credit Cards: MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped Access: Accessible, but rest room not fully equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Accepted

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