Noto's Old World Italian Dining fine tunes family recipes

G05015 NOTO'S food.jpgPan seared Kobe steak with an anchovy, caper, veal glace pan sauce is served at Noto's Italian restaurant.

The proper pairing of wine and food is considered high art at Noto's Old World Italian Dining.

So when our server, Wendy, asked if my husband, Mike, and I if we would like to start with a beverage, we told her we'd first choose entrees, then ask for her recommendation. (Alternative: Wade through Noto's massive wine list -- which tops out at 124 pages.)

When I settled on an eggplant entree and Mike ordered a Kobe steak, Wendy recommended the Marchesi Biscardo 2007 Valpolicella ($40). A favorite at a recent staff wine tasting, it turned out to be a great choice. The red wine was rich, dark and warming, with those little legs that run down the insides of the glass after, trying to look sophisticated, you swirl it.

Wine is so central to the Noto's experience that Chef Darin Wilbur even features multi-course dinners in one of eight "domes" down in Noto's wine cellar.

IF YOU GO
Noto's Old World Italian Dining

Where: 6600 28th St. SE
Hours: 4-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday
When we dined: 6:30 p.m. Thursday, May 6
Wait to be seated: None
Wait for food to arrive: 12 minutes
Dress code: Business casual
Ambiance: Classic Italian, quiet and comfortable
Parking: Adjacent lot
Price range: $11-$33; several entrees $11-$15
Credit cards: All major
Alcohol: Full bar; extensive wine list
Reservations: Suggested for special events
Call them: 493-6686
Connect: Find a complete menu online at notosoldworld.com.
Call us: Know a great place to dine out? Call The Press Entertainment department at 222-5291, or e-mail weekend@grpress.com.

The bottom line at Noto's is Italian dining based on fine-tuned family recipes.

"It's not on the menu if the family doesn't enjoy it," said Joann Noto, co-owner with brothers Tom and Tony and mother Mary.

We started with a customer favorite: Mozzarella al Forno ($9), fresh-pulled mozzarella -- made on the premises -- wrapped with prosciutto di Parma. It's baked, then served with a delicately sweet balsamic sauce in scrumptious counterpoint to the salty meat. The menu describes a tomato basil salad as an accompaniment; we got but one lettuce leaf but used it to scoop every drop of the sauce.

Mike tried a small portion of the soup of the day ($5), a smooth potato-cauliflower combination, surprisingly light for what our server described as a cream-based soup. A basket of homemade pane classico -- bread slices, with crunchy crusts and soft centers -- was yummy when dipped in olive oil, especially while still warm.

My Melanzane alla Parmigiana eggplant medallions ($16) offered a less hefty option for those who love the cheesy-tomato goodness of pasta. It was lightly breaded and baked with a satisfying, flavorful result. And, in keeping with Noto's grandmotherly Italian cooking, the portions were enormous (we took some home).

Noto's offered a new menu in March and Mike's Bistecca con Salsa di Acciughe e Capperi is one of the new variations of a favorite beef entree. The grilled Kobe steak was served with an anchovy, caper and veal glace pan sauce ($27). The meat was soft and tender, though the sauce was weaker than he expected from such pungent ingredients. The dish was served with sauteed fresh asparagus, squash, bell pepper and show-stopping delicious pesto mashed potatoes.

"Second course" entrees come with a small plate of pasta -- Mike's was a perfectly il dente bowtie with a tasty veal and tomato sauce. Other popular entrees are the pan-fried walleye in a hazelnut crust served with Frangelico cream sauce ($28) and Cannelloni della Casa, a Noto family recipe of veal, homemade sausage, spinach and grana cheese, wrapped in fresh pasta and baked with classic meat sauce and mozzarella cheese ($19).

"We changed of lot of the preparations with this menu," said Noto. The goal is to use fresh, locally grown ingredients as compliments to pasta, lamb, beef and chicken dishes.

The new menu offers "lighter fare" dishes, a nod to those who want cocktails and snacks as they listen to live music. Currently on Thursdays, the lounge features vocalist Kathy Lamar, who has performed with The Four Tops and Gladys Knight, and keyboardist Bob VanStee. The music was nice background, never intruding on our conversation.

The lighter side includes Filetto di Salmone all'Arancia pan-seared salmon served with orange thyme sauce ($22) and Tilapia Annerito, blackened tilapia with citrus butter sauce ($12). I also was tempted by the Noto special salad ($9) featuring Romaine, fennel, peppers, Kalamata olives, shaved grana and artichokes.

For dessert, we shared pane dolce ($8, Italian for "sweet Italian bread"), a white chocolate custard over a bread and butter crust. It alone was worth the visit. It's among several choices -- including customer favorite homemade cannoli -- prepared daily.

The service was informative and personable (our busperson confessed between water refills that he relishes Noto's bread dipped in balsamic vinegar). With a choice like Noto's, why would anyone choose a chain restaurant?

G05015 NOTO'S dining.jpgThe dining room in Noto's Italian restaurant in Cascade Township.

E-mail Weekend: weekend@grpress.com

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