Big Game Restaurant and Lounge, 1631 Wazee St., 303-623-1630. Sunday-Tuesday, 11 a.m.-midnight. Wednesday-Saturday 11 a.m.- 2 a.m.
The look: Little expense was spared in converting the cavernous LoDo space last occupied by Il Fornaio into the new Big Game Restaurant and Lounge, but whatever money was poured into the rich finishes and pricey equipment is eclipsed by spectacularly massive projection television screens.
“Massive” is no overstatement. One wall has a 30-foot screen, capable of simultaneously playing three or more sporting events of various varieties (golf, soccer, car racing, baseball … even, on a recent night, “Keeping Up With the Kardashians”), and it is mesmerizing. But the videos don’t end there. There are televisions in the booths, televisions over the bar; televisions in every direction. Feel like playing some Wii? Just ask your server.
On the menu: Big Game’s food program will be recognizable to fans of other higher-end sports bars like Earls and the Taverns chain — wings and burgers and cheesy fries — though the kitchen is more ambitious by a measure than these other players. There are nods to local products (a Red Bird Farm half-chicken), local tastes (bison steaks and green chile), game (elk and venison), steakhouse touches (creamed spinach, iceberg wedge salad), a small sushi menu, a whole menu section dedicated to mussels and even a charcuterie platter. A dozen or more local beers on tap, plus a suite of house cocktails.
The vibe: Sprawling and airy with sky-high ceilings, this place feels big even when it’s full. Noise is a concern — Big Game is not the place for an intimate conversation. But then, with all those televisions to watch, who cares?
The service: It is early days for Big Game, and the service is closely managed — indulgent, energetic and focused. No major stretch of time passes without someone asking how everything is, or whether you need another beer. Smiles are prevalant. Waitresses wear short black dresses, and suits comb the room to keep tabs on quality. Valet parking out front for $8.
When to visit: Plan your visit at lunch for a quieter experience or during a Rockies game for a more boisterous meal. Tucker Shaw
This periodic column takes a short peek at a new restaurant that isn’t yet ready for a full-scale review.
