Cathy Phillips
"We really like where we're at," Julie Hutchison said regarding the location of the new Root Cafe that she and her husband, Bobby Breitenstein, opened in December in Lakewood. She's speaking literally, of course, about what a great neighborhood it's in — but also metaphorically.
Creating their own successful family business has given Hutchison and Breitenstein the chance to live their values and to enjoy an ideal balance of work and family. The vegetarian couple lives with their two young children, Hazel and Gabriel, on the same block as their cafe, making for an ideal daily commute.
The cafe is the culmination of years of planning. Previously, Hutchison managed, and eventually purchased, one of the first Phoenix Coffee shops, a Cleveland-based operation. The tiny shop, just two doors east of the Root, was a popular neighborhood hangout. So popular, in fact, that Hutchison had a problem many business owners might envy.
“We were bursting at the seams,” she said.
Faced with the prospect of turning away customers, she began dreaming of a venue large enough to house not just her coffee business, but also a restaurant that could cater to the area’s many vegetarians.
When a bigger space opened up practically next door, the couple knew right away it would be perfect. When renowned Ohio chef Nonni Casino introduced herself and offered her services, everything fell into place.
“I felt confident that we could pull this off,” Hutchison said.
Casino had chops, and shared the couple’s enthusiasm for wholesome, local, and organic foods.
Today, the Root Cafe is a bustling locus of neighborhood activity, from highlighter-armed students on caffeine-fueled study marathons, to moms with young children enjoying a lunch out, to domino-playing retirees.
The food here reflects the cafe's fresh and funky vibe, with inspired vegetarian fare that is appealing enough to entice omnivores as well. Casino uses organic and locally-grown produce whenever possible, preparing each order from scratch. Breitenstein makes all of the restaurant's breads, and Cindy Mackay takes care of the rest of the baking.
The grilled portobello mushroom sandwich ($12) sampled on a recent visit was delicious, earthy with a touch of rosemary. Fresh, organic spinach, slices of ripe tomato, melted provolone cheese, and a swipe of cannellini bean hummus rounded out the flavors. The nicely filling sandwich was accompanied by a pleasantly tangy, simply dressed slaw of green and red cabbage.
A steaming cup of Phoenix coffee and dessert will finish off your meal nicely. My barista recommended the “black and tan,” (not to be confused with the beer concoction), a heavenly mixture of hot cocoa fortified with a double shot of espresso and beautifully swirled with a frothy layer of bi-colored foam ($3.50). It was outstanding.
A moist, pale golden scone ($2.50) of oats, dates, and brown sugar was tender and sweet, and the perfect companion for my coffee.
The Root Cafe is located at 15118 Detroit Avenue in Lakewood, two doors west of the former Phoenix Coffee location. Hours of operation are 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday; 6:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday, Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday; and 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday. Coffee is served all day; the kitchen opens at 11 a.m. daily. Call (216) 226-4401 for more information.
Phillips is a freelance food writer in Avon Lake.