Photograph by Katherine Bish
Here’s the countdown, chosen to represent a range of restaurants within St. Louis Magazine’s four-tiered pricing structure, beginning with the least expensive.
$ Entrees Under $10
Blues City Deli
Lord knows you’ve got the right to sing them. You can at this popular deli. Better yet, spend your time more profitably by eating here. Concert posters and blues memorabilia festoon the walls. Sandwiches are featured: Muffulettas (with handmade olive dressing), Italian beef, Memphis-style pulled pork and a variety of lettuce-and-tomato–dressed subs, including a superb meatball, all attract a faithful following. Pleasant patio seating and live jazz on weekends add to
the attractions. 2438 McNair, 314-773-8225, bluescitydeli.com
Gyros House
From the gyro-scopic view, St. Louis has several good locations. A charming hole-in-the-wall best is the Loop’s Gyros House. It seats only about a dozen, but the prices and food are unbeatable. Meat (taken only from free-range gyros) is folded into creamy, soft pita discs along with onions and crumbles of feta and painted with tzatziki. Also available is some of the tastiest hummus among us, and the falafel ain’t awful. Baklava? You bet. 571 Melville, 314-721-5638
Pho Grand
Don’t converse. Just breathe in the aroma of your bowl of pho while it’s still vaporously hot. That meaty, savory broth. The sharp tang of fresh basil. The cilantro kick of ngo gai. Stir in the chili nibbles and crunchy bean sprouts. Eat. Savor. Get the pho dac biet special, combining beefy textures of rib-eye, brisket and tripe. There are other Vietnamese specialties available. Try them. But not until you’ve mastered the joy of pho here. 3195 S. Grand, 314-664-7435, phogrand.com
The Pitted Olive
Tile floors and cool interior colors give this unique spot a Mediterranean feel. Garlic frites or a platter of olives, mozzarella and capers are splendid starters, followed by salsiccia lasagna or the continually changing chicken, pork or fish special. Sandwiches, like an andouille grinder on sea-salted ciabatta, are a welcome contribution. A good, affordable wine selection and desserts like a sticky toffee pudding add considerably to the equation. All-season patio dining is particularly pleasant. 5815 Hampton, 314-832-6548, thepittedolivedeli.com
Pueblo Nuevo
The widescreen’s set to Latin American soccer; red and green sauces are set to “stun.” There’s little not to like in this unprepossessing strip-mall jewel. Moist chubby tamales and enchiladas, a smoky, peppery goat stew and flaky-crusted empanadas are authentic. Pork chicharones swimming in an incandescent salsa verde are among the region’s top guilty pleasures. Margaritas may have the power to restore life, but the liquid flames in the squeeze bottles for chips can take it away. 7401 N. Lindbergh, 314-831-6885
Pumpernickles Deli
There is no better place to have a late, leisurely breakfast than this quintessential Creve Coeur deli. It’s loud, crowded, fun … and delicious. Crisp latkes, eggy rich challah French toast and cheese blintzes compete for your affection. Struggle with the decision between crumbled matzoh and scrambled eggs or corned beef hash. Or go with an exquisite Rueben, the corned beef piled impossibly high, the toasted rye buttery. The nova lox with cream cheese? Nisht geferlech (we’ve had worse). 11036 Olive, 314-567-4496, pumpernickles.com
Rooster
Breakfast re-achieves elegance in an intimate downtown crêperie. Savory crepes, Kate Moss–light, are wrapped around good stuff like gooey brie and roasted apples, slices of ham and sirloin, or juicy German-style sausages. Fresh berries, liquor-poached fig cream and Nutella make memorable dessert crepes. Eggs, French toast and sandwiches like a grilled croque-monsieur are available for the crepe-challenged. Cappuccinos, Americanos and lattes are the sweet battery acid necessary to charge your morning motor. 1104 Locust, 314-241-8118, roosterstl.com
Stellina Pasta Cafe
Wood floors, brick walls and a pressed tin ceiling make for an attractive atmosphere. Homemade pastas and wonderfully constructed sandwiches make for fine dining. The pasta menu changes daily. Always offered: some kind of lasagna, a long-pasta dish (like fettuccine with sausage, red peppers and spinach) and a stuffed one. Try the Hog Wild sandwich, loaded with ham, bacon, apple slices and cheddar, grilled with spicy mustard. The place is small and imminently worthwhile. 3342 Watson, 314-256-1600, stellinapasta.com
$$ Entrees $10–$15
Iron Barley
Ignore the pseudo-edgy, hippie coffeehouse shtick. Few kitchens produce a more enticing—or straightforward—menu. Oak-fired ovens produce chicken, pork and prime rib. A pork tenderloin schnitzel is satisfyingly matched with noodle nubbins of spaetzle. Barley paella? Barley risotto? Both work, as does the hot smoked salmon and trout and other cast-iron-skillet concoctions. A loyal clientele treat the place as a clubhouse, but if you appreciate good, honest food, you’ll fit right in. 5510 Virginia, 314-351-4500, ironbarley.com
Guido’s Pizzeria and Tapas
Nothing like an Italian restaurant for great Spanish tapas. We know. It’s weird. Go with it. Guido’s, one of many fine eateries on The Hill, supplements its Italian fare with classic hot and cold tapas. Papery slices of serrano ham and olives. Shrimp sautéed in garlicky olive oil. Tiny, vinegar-marinated smelt with lemon juice. Fried squid; ham croquettes. A long evening sampling tapas here, sipping Spanish wine, is a must-have St. Louis dining experience. 5046 Shaw, 314-771-4900, guidosstl.com
Juniper Grill
Once again voted “Best Restaurant Named for a Conifer,” the place is attractive and intimate; the food is imaginative, ambitious, worthwhile. Shrimp are stuffed with crab and avocado, served with Creole risotto. A filet mignon is topped with roasted garlic and bacon crumbles. Even starters, like chipotle cheddar cakes and crisp, batter-fried scallops, shrimp and squid with saffron-scented aioli, are intriguing. Recommended for that romantic evening you’ve been planning since the Carter administration. 1928 S. 12th, 314-621-9195, juniper-grill.com
Royal Chinese BBQ
Nothing says “yummy” like a window of hanging duck carcasses. At Royal Chinese BBQ, St. Louis’ go-to spot for Cantonese cuisine, presentations are vibrant with color and flavor, from emerald Chinese broccoli to sunburst pinwheels of shrimp. Soy-sauce-and-honey–barbecued char siu pork chunks glisten. A variety of specialties (the duck feet are delectable) will delight the adventurous; the not-so will appreciate vastly superior takes on fried noodles and other more familiar Cantonese fare. 8406 Olive, 314-991-1888
Tin Can Tavern & Grille
The great diner balances comfort food with kitsch. The Tin Can Tavern excels at this, its walls lined with beer cans and koozies; the food, Grandma-style. Meatloaf, pot roast and chicken-fried steak, along with sides like mac and cheese, potatoes and gravy, and fries, all mark this a diner destination. Consider the famous “Backyard Bomber” pork steak sandwich or a superior fried chicken. More than 50 beers (including the Korean Hite brand) will challenge even you.3157 Morganford, 314-865-3003 and 1909 Locust, 314-241-9330, tincantavern.com
$$$ Entrees $16–$20
Acero
Maplewood’s Acero has added a welcome new dimension to local Italian dining. Savor ordering a course at a time, beginning with superior cheese and meat antipasti, then moving on to delectable pastas like linguini with smoked pork jowl. Garlicky Florentine-style steak and veal sweetbread scaloppini are utterly successful secondi courses. Don’t miss the creamy polentas, cooled on marble slabs and mixed with braised oxtail, lamb ragù and other delights. 7266 Manchester, 314-644-1790, acerostl.com
Atlas
Consistently ranked among St. Louis’ best since it opened in 2003, Atlas continues to charm and reward diners. The setting is intimate, trim and comfortable. The menu changes constantly. May you experience rack of lamb with mint salsa verde, striped bass in a minestrone broth or the cabernet-braised short ribs with roasted potatoes. A house-made terrine is exceptional; French fries are legendary. The chocolate truffle cake has probably inspired more “tomorrow I diet” vows than any other dessert in town. 5513 Pershing, 314-367-6800, atlasrestaurantstl.com
Chez Leon
This popular CWE eatery was bistro before bistros were big. Très hip for the neighborhood flâneur or the West County pieton provincial, offerings like seared foie gras, sautéed veal medallions in white wine with mushrooms, pan-fried trout meunière and mussels in wine with shallots and garlic are a Julia Child dream. A Grand Marnier–soaked soufflé and a leisurely summer evening café allongé on the patio make the perfect finish to a meal here. 4580 Laclede, 314-361-1589, chezleon.com
Franco
The faithful convene at Franco to huddle in rapture over steamy, lusty bowls of bean and pork cassoulet. Crusty grilled pork rib-chops and delicate pan-roasted chicken have their fans as well, though every item on the compact menu tempts. Sweetbreads and house-made pâtés are successful; a thick French onion soup gratinée is exemplary. Lots of wood and brick make for an attractive, urban-chic interior; the place is usually crowded and happy. 1535 S. Eighth, 314-436-2500, eatatfranco.com
Frazer’s
Another Benton Park standout, Frazer’s contrived campy décor doesn’t distract from the gloriously satisfying food. Starters like feta-sprinkled mushroom strudel hint at what follows. Bacon-wrapped beef and chorizo meatloaf, crawfish étouffée, seafood pasta—the range and excellence here are refreshing. Salmon Frazer, a fillet crusted with horseradish, pecans and bread crumbs, served with beans and rice, is memorable. An extensive wine list and attached lounge add to an atmosphere serious about both food and a festive evening. 1811 Pestalozzi, 314-773-8646, frazergoodeats.com
Mosaic
First, get friends. Second, go to Mosaic. Sit around. Order slowly. Try a nibble of duck prosciutto. Bathe your tongue in a purply Malbec. Linger over the risotto chunky with lobster and crawfish. Or savor knobs of herbed gnocchi with asparagus and truffle sauce. Or sample your friend’s wild mushrooms and pancetta in flaky pastry. Steal a bite of your other friend’s dulce de leche. Sip a tawny port. Reflect on how life—well, isn’t it grand? 1001 Washington, 314-621-6001, mosaictapas.com
Nobu’s Japanese Restaurant
Most local Japanese restaurants are passable. Nobu’s is one, however, that gets it right. Dozens of details, from the seasonal changes in the miso soup and in the recipe for sushi rice, demonstrate the chef’s expertise. Sushi is good here; tempura is crispy, golden and hot. Even better, though, are traditional dishes like yellowtail jaw, grilled and flecked with salt, or thick stews of shellfish in rich broths redolent with the aroma of the sea. 8643 Olive, 314-997-2303
Oceano Bistro
The place in St. Louis for seafood. In a jazzy, airy space, it’s haute tide for fishy comestibles. Mussel shells tower over a platter of steamed shellfish stew in a luscious broth. This October at Oceano, wild salmon sits atop a bacon-wrapped arugula cake, and grilled bigeye pairs with a long bean–and–tangerine salad. A wine list laden with fish-friendly varietals helps make this a favorite gathering place for seafood aficionados. 44 N. Brentwood, 314-721-9400, oceanobistro.com
Pomme Café & Wine Bar
From the exposed brick walls to the chalked menu, Pomme Café needs only a snotty garçon to create a more authentic French bistro feel. The atmosphere charms. Service flatters. Unpretentious meals, like a hanger steak salad, French onion soup and hot roast turkey on ciabatta, all work. So does a Belgian chocolate mousse dessert. Note: Late-night “snacks” here are rewarding; pâtés, terrines and cheese plates offer the most civilized “after 10” dining in the area. 44 N. Central, 314-721-8801, pommerestaurants.com
Sage
Starters like thick onion rings fried in AmberBock-buttermilk batter and smoked salmon quesadillas prepare you for 15-spice-rubbed ribs, crab-stuffed sole and the famous tomato sauce–glazed “real deal” meatloaf, with buttery whipped potatoes. Just-enough shot-glass desserts are a splendid finish. Dinner at this spacious, sophisticated and comfortable eatery has become deservedly popular since the place opened just a year ago. Patio dining is a summertime delight. A cute little brewery next door offers tours (Dutch- and French-language translators available upon request). 1031 Lynch, 314-256-1203, sageinsoulard.com
Sidney Street Café
Try to find something you wouldn’t order on this menu. Go ahead. We’ll wait. Going to pass on the roasted, herb-encrusted tenderloin in wine sauce? The apple wood–smoked duck breast? The halibut wrapped in potato? Say, “Thanks, I can do without the oyster poor-boys or veal dumplings”? We didn’t think so. So go. Everyone else in St. Louis raves about this extraordinary, multilevel crystal-and-candlelight restaurant; you won’t regret joining the club. 2000 Sidney, 314-771-5777, sidneystreetcafe.com
Trattoria Marcella
Too much local Italian dining is as bland as a TV anchor’s suits. Trattoria Marcella shakes up the Parmesan, combining innovations with luxurious classics. Try offbeat polenta fries and a Marsala cream dip, or sample traditional farfalle in a lemon cream sauce with flaked smoked salmon and English peas. Osso buco and squash stuffed in ravioli, ladled with cherry demi-glace, is nuovo; the lasagna is superbly old-school. Note the affordable wines, with lots of Italian bargains. 3600 Watson, 314-352-7706, www.trattoriamarcella.com
Vin de Set
Spacious-rehabbed hip, with vaulted ceilings and arched windows, Vin de Set’s famous for its rooftop patio dining, a sprawling yet convivial space. There is no better bouillabaisse in town. Short ribs braised in Burgundy, grilled scallops and monkfish swaddled in bacon are just a few of the delights here. Savory crepes are a delicious specialty. The kitchen is relentlessly creative, presentations are sophisticated and reservations are a must. 2017 Chouteau, 314-241-8989, vindeset.com
$$$$ Entrees over $20
An American Place
An obsession with local foods would have the chef at An American Place serving Missouri-grown scallops if he could get them. The emphasis is on fabulous ingredients, honestly, masterfully prepared. Oysters Rockefeller with a brown butter emulsion, foie gras seared with a huckleberry gastrique, spit-roasted quail with a chanterelle-and-chestnut risotto. The cheese selection is exquisite, the wine list even better. This is St. Louis’ best hotel dining and one of its best restaurants, period. 800 Washington, 314-418-5800, anamericanplacestl.com
Annie Gunn’s
We have simple tastes. A nibble of wild boar; sun-dried blueberry and pine nut sausage; lobster fonduta penne; or lamb loin chops and a plain ol’ Ozark forest mushroom chutney, and we’re happy. Fortunately, this kind of home cooking is available at Annie Gunn’s. And they can rustle up something to wet your whistle, from a Wine Spectator Award–winning cellar. So remember Annie Gunn’s. For the kumquat chipotle compote just like Mom used
to make. 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, 636-532-7684, smokehousemarket.com
Araka
Sinking the equivalent of many a nation’s GNP into a restaurant at the foot of Clayton’s Ritz-Carlton was a risky venture—but one that’s paid off. Araka is among the handsomest eateries around, magnificently decorated—including the must-see restrooms. Presentations are lavish and imaginative. Finished with gooey fontina and truffle shavings, wild mushrooms are stuffed into cannelloni. A veal chop is adorned with sweetbreads on a pillow of pancetta-spiked polenta. Desserts, like chocolate hazelnut bars, are suitably extravagant as well. 131 Carondelet Plaza, 314-725-6777, araka.com
Busch’s Grove
Defining “élan” in atmosphere, décor and dining, this stunning—wait. What? You’re kidding. Ceni in pace, Grove. We hardly knew ye.
Cardwell’s at the Plaza
The grind of shopping at Plaza Frontenac tries lesser mortals. You managed it like Hillary mounted Everest, with aplomb and verve. An appropriate reward for you and your shopping Sherpas is dinner at Cardwell’s. Warm goat cheese tortes. Baby-back ribs smoked, then finished on the grill with a house-made barbecue sauce. White cheddar–baked macaroni. Mussels steamed in a tomato-and-saffron broth with crusty French bread. A stunning wine list. Who deserves it more? 94 Plaza Frontenac, 314-997-8885, cardwellsattheplaza.com
Citizen Kane’s Steak House
A charming renovated Victorian home houses this seventh little circle of Vegan Hell, St. Louis’ premier steakhouse. New York strip and rib-eyes arrive still a-sizzle, properly seared, glistening, packing a load of beefy flavor, done exactly as ordered. Pork chops are phone-book thick, appetizing, tender and juicy. Coupling such entrees with sides like sautéed potatoes, onions and peppers, plus a refreshingly light vinaigrette on salads, makes this the perfect
place to take your poor, overworked cardiologist. 133 W. Clinton, 314-965-9005, citizenkanes.com
Harvest
In winter, grilled duck breast with a blueberry vinaigrette. In spring, rabbit and roasted trumpet mushrooms tossed with pappardelle ribbons. Summer means lamb shanks roasted in their own juices. This fall? You can bet it will be another dish finely tuned to the season, a specialty of this local favorite upscale eatery. Regulars rave about the bread pudding, but we think nothing says dessert better than buttermilk onion rings with cayenne blue cheese dip. 1059 S. Big Bend, 314-645-3522, harveststlouis.com
Monarch
You’ll come for pistachio-encrusted lamb chops; you’ll stay for the pan-seared grouper and sweet potato hash. Sumptuous dining in sumptuous surroundings, Monarch burst onto the scene a few years ago, never losing stride since. The elegantly appointed dining room is complemented by a more relaxed bistro area offering fare like tenderloin empanadas and an olive-studded Mediterranean risotto. A great wine list, professional service and flair in presentation all work to make this a standout dining destination. 7401 Manchester, 314-644-3995, monarchrestaurant.com
Niche
Finding its own in the Benton Park neighborhood, Niche combines cool, minimalist décor with an innovative passion for food. Quince, couscous-like fregola, garbanzo flour panisse—even the connoisseur is hard-pressed to identify ingredients here. Memorable tasting menus may include duck medallions and chewy faro grains or blackfin tuna crudo with watermelon and basil. Just don’t miss Dia’s cheese bread. Niche seats only 40, so reservations are a must, often difficult to procure but worth the trouble. 1831 Sidney, 314-773-7755, nichestlouis.com
Tony’s
A glorious retro-restaurant from the days of formally attired waiters, snowy tablecloths and plush seating, Tony’s offers the grandest formal dining in the region. Classics like lobster Albanello, veal Milanese and rack of lamb, along with steaks and fabulous pastas, are complemented by a staggering wine list. And the stories you’ve heard are true: Service here
defines “impeccable.” 410 Market, 314-231-7007, tonysstlouis.com
2008 Restaurant of the Year
Robust
An evening at Robust is the best dining experience in St. Louis right now. Spanking new in a thoroughly cool, sleek Webster Groves location, it has succeeded by being what it purports to be: an inviting, upscale tapas restaurant. A big bar dominates space in the middle, surrounded by plenty of small tables easily pushed together to accommodate any crowd or kept apart for cozy intimacy. The kitchen generates a steady stream of more-than-nibbles, not-quite-full-course meals, designed for savoring and best consumed with a glass or four of wine. These tapas are delicious, solid, often inventive, consistently enjoyable: A platter of domestic, handcrafted cheeses like a creamy combination brie-chèvre or a soft Camembert baked in flaky puff pastry. Charcuterie plates with leaves of salami and coppa and chunks of country pâté. Larger tapas include crab cakes dressed with roasted garlic-and-chive aioli, flatbread topped with three cheeses, mussels in a fennel-tomato broth and scallops with white truffle risotto. Prices make a selection of a half-dozen of these an affordable meal. A well-crafted wine list is arranged by body style—“Robust factors”—rather than by grape or region, so a silky pinot noir, an approachable Tempranillo and a blended Côtes du Rhône might all fall under the heading of “soft-hearted.” Finish with a “stickie,” an ice wine that’s sweeter than a first kiss, its golden color as luminous as an April sunrise. But don’t finish too soon. Dinner at Robust is one you won’t want to rush. 227 W. Lockwood, 314-963-0033, robustwinebar.com
Ones to Watch
The restaurant gurus will tell you, “If you make it through the freshman year, growing pains will disappear.” Here are several months-old restaurants that, so far, are earning straight A’s.
Revival
Cary McDowell’s talented kitchen is creating inspired—and reasonably priced—Southern-influenced food. Our guess is that the buzz and momentum will continue into 2009 … unless Chouteau closes again. 3800 Chouteau, 314-771-3939, revivalstl.com
Katie’s Pizzeria Café, Onesto, and Pi
Let’s just say your favorite pizza place is in jeopardy. These three upstarts each offer a different style of pie, and (gasp!) none of them is topped with Provel. Can any of them possibly last a year? Katie’s: 6611 Clayton, 314-727-8585; Onesto: 5401 Finkman, 314-802-8883, onestopizza.com; Pi: 6144 Delmar, 314-727-6633, restaurantpi.com
Pappy’s Smokehouse
Unless Mike Emerson’s smoker gets carried off to the land of Oz, look for his dry-rubbed ribs and pulled pork to set the standard by which future ’cue is judged. 3106 Olive, 314-535-4340, pappyssmokehouse.com
R.I.P.: Restaurant Postmortems
We loved them. We’ll miss them. We’re still thinking about them. We woefully submit reflections on six of St. Louis’ gone-but-not-forgotten restaurants.
King Louie’s
3800 Chouteau
Final meal served: July 7, 2007
Why we’ll miss it: C’mon, who didn’t love King Louie’s? That majestic bar, that picture-perfect patio and a menu that danced around seafood, flatbreads, pasta and salads with the greatest of ease.
Why (we think) it closed: Before there was a Highway 40 closing, there was the interminable Chouteau Avenue construction. Then there were entrees like the $38 cowboy steak, which for many placed Louie’s smack-dab in “special occasion” territory.
Where to go now: Right back to where you once were: Revival took over the King Louie’s location and offers an equally inspired menu but at a lower price.
Café Balaban
405 N. Euclid
Final meal served: January 27, 2008
Why we’ll miss it: Elderly regulars having early dinners, industry folk, darling men late-night carousing at the bar and all sorts of yuppie couples and home-turf CWE-ers in between—the scene could’ve made for a great Edward Hopper painting. The food wasn’t half bad, either.
Why (we think) it closed: The smoking ban likely killed the witching-hour crowd, while the revamped menu likely scared off the regulars, early bird or otherwise.
Where to go now: Find a new fave—comfy, modest and moderately priced—in Five (4317 Manchester) or Juniper Grill (1928 S. 12th). Don’t want to leave the CWE? Rumor has it Balaban’s will be reincarnated yet again, hopefully this month.
Zinnia
7491 Big Bend
Final meal served: March 30, 2008
Why we’ll miss it: Eighteen years in business means legendary dishes: Trout Zinnia, with sesame seeds, pecans and pine nuts, as well as veal sweetbreads, a staple that never disappointed. It was here that we first experienced alfresco dining in November, on the heated, hidden patio that many never knew existed.
Why (we think) it closed: Fresh marketing ideas were needed to combat the formidable and nearby competition of Starrs, Cyrano’s and especially Robust. Staying “top of mind” is no easy task for an independent restaurant in its teens.
Where to go now: The Crossing (7823 Forsyth) for the intimacy, Terrene (33 N. Sarah) for the option of patio dining in the fall or The Shaved Duck (2900 Virginia), where you may just get a rendition of Zinnia’s famous duck tacos.
Busch’s Grove
9160 Clayton
Final meal served: May 24, 2008
Why we’ll miss it: For the old clubhouse vibe, the dry ice–garnished martinis that bubbled and brewed like witches’ potions, the fortysomething pickup scene at the bar, the Terry Crouppen sightings … and now where are we supposed to go when we get that insane craving for the $45 Crispy Lobster Oriental?
Why (we think) it closed: Read the paper lately? Money ain’t so plentiful these days, and Busch’s Grove required buckets and buckets of it. And we can’t ignore the hunger pangs for the “old” Busch’s—the one with the real cabanas, the outrageously strong drinks and valet parking that worked like a giant, sliding-tile puzzle.
Where to go now: Tony’s (410 Market) for that authentic old-school panache. An American Place (800 Washington) for a gastronomic symphony worth remembering on your deathbed. Or if you just want that bombastic steak, there’s the new SleeK (999 N. Second) inside Lumière Place.
KoKo
3257 Ivanhoe
Final meal served: June 15, 2008
Why we’ll miss it: Foodies and locals alike touted KoKo as the little eatery that could. It provided Pan-Latin and Creole comfort food that was satisfying yet intriguing, a warm and welcoming décor, and prices appropriate for a neighborhood restaurant.
Why (we think) it closed: Location, location, location. While the Interstate 44–friendly address was originally considered a boon, recent history has shown that Ivanhoe is an Ivan-no when it comes to killing off restaurants. (See: Café Ivanhoe, Breakfast Tools and Colossus.)
Where to go now: Norton’s (808 Geyer) comes closest in coziness, price and ethnicity, but as far as finding a substitute for KoKo’s elaborate Bloody Mary Bar and 12 varieties of eggs Benedict, you won’t.
Savor
4356 Lindell
Final meal served: June 29, 2008
Why we’ll miss it: Supping at this fine-dining manse made you feel like a millionaire. (Best restaurant bathrooms in town, rest in peace.) Plus, we always enjoyed the intimate nightclub space in the back for its cabaret shows and performances of prestidigitation.
Why (we think) it closed: Well, losing Kirk Warner as head chef didn’t help (just as it didn’t help King Louie’s, from which he leapt to start Savor in 2005). Neither did the restaurant’s original globe-trotting menu (Acetaia-Leonardi saba, anyone?), which may have been too smart for its own good.
Where to go now: Geographically close to erstwhile Savor and plugging along with great modesty and aplomb, there’s French/Italian fine-dining establishment Liluma (236 N. Euclid), now firmly ensconced on the hottest corner in the CWE.
By Dave Lowry, George Mahe and Rose Martelli
