View full size Alberto's Ristorante695 Bay St., Stapleton, 718-420-0091; AlbertosRistorante.com
Menu: Contemporary Italian.
Hours: Lunch: Monday-Friday, noon-4 p.m.; Dinner: Tuesday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday 5-11 p.m.; Saturday, 5-10 p.m.; Sunday, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Prices: Appetizers, $9.50-$18.95; pastas & risotto, $18.50-$21.95; fish & meat, $19.50-$25.95; Ddesserts, $7.50-$14.
Drinks: Full bar, wines are basic selections priced $25-$40.
Specs: Wheelchair accessible at street
By RALPH KNISLEY & PAMELA SILVESTRI
STATEN ISLAND, NY -- The burgundy awnings and attractive storefront at Alberto's Ristorante (the former location of DoSI Caffe) perk up an otherwise bleak stretch of Bay Street in Stapleton. And once inside, the dining room's warm look pulls a patron into the fold with its chandeliers, exposed-brick and charming fireplace.
With pretty place settings of linen napkins and cloths, respectable and, at times, exceptional food — the setting is in motion for sensational dining. But experiences here didn't make this happen.
For the most part, chemistry in dishes were balanced and spot on, so clearly there is great talent in the kitchen. However, dishes like Chicken Marsala — a delicious and generous piece of moist meat smothered with mushrooms and onions in sherry sauce — called for cavatelli and San Marzano tomato sauce — neither of which was delivered. A Rigatoni dish that unexpectedly substituted black olives and sundried tomatoes for the promised mushrooms, peas and sausage was also disappointing.
That theme of randomly changing up the menu happened on each visit, including one early evening with our entree Sweet Corn Risotto with Shrimps, Pancetta and Truffle Oil: There was no corn in the dish. Pointing this out to the server, he took it back and, shortly thereafter, a manager leaned over our table to tell us that the kitchen was out of sweet corn. A different dish was supplied and we were not billed for it. But no corn? Did anyone believe that would go unnoticed? Another time this dish was ordered the shrimp had an ammonia scent. The server didn't check to see if we liked it and we did not send it back.
Kvetches aside, here's a reminder that some dishes are quite good. Especially the appetizer of Green Pea, Walnut and Fresh Ricotta, with a very pleasant and refreshing salad bathed in Champagne Vinaigrette and the Crispy Calamari (all rings) with Spicy Tomato Ragout on the side.
Worthy of mention were Farro Salad with artichoke and sliced radishes and a winning, warm Sherry Vinaigrette. Also, Steamed Manila Clams and Garlic Toast — a sweet choice for a clam but a tough shell to pry open — served with a generous plank of bread for mopping a delightful broth.
Pan-Seared Chilean Sea Bass on Lobster Minestrone approached perfection with its generous slab of moist, flavorful fish resting in light, brothy minestrone replete with several large chunks of sweet lobster meat. Porcini-Braised Short Ribs with Petite Syrah Sauce was tender and tasty but oddly partnered with cavatelli coated in bechamel sauce — way too heavy a side dish for such a hearty entree and just an overall unattractive plate presentation.
Looking for the dessert menu? Don't bother: Of eight items that are available on the printed page and on
only maybe two or three are offered each evening.
The servers unabashedly declined to offer the menu on one visit, saying there was only a single option in stock: Molten Chocolate Lava Cake and Fresh Berries — which is totally worth the calories. It was a little like eating fudge or uncooked brownie batter if you like that kind of thing. We give it a big thumbs up.
Now here's another interesting matter: The chef's resume is presented on the inside cover of the menu book. That might raise expectations for a diner, as the list of quality restaurants in his history is impressive.
Alberto's has a lot going for it but it is dragged down by the lack of kinetic energy — the personality or warm greeting at the door, the presence of the chef in the dining room from time-to-time, the bustle of servers moving to and fro, a convivial bar scene. That lack of energy and buzz flattened the experiences. We hope to see things liven up sometime soon.
After all, the chef appears to be waiting to make the magic happen.