Get everything from signature dishes to salads and sandwiches at this eatery
Click here to see Second Helpings: A Quick Look Back at Past Dining Reviews
515 University Blvd., 251-3101]
The definition emblazoned on the dining room wall announces that Kairos is Greek for a "special moment." We experienced a couple of those during recent visits to Kairos Kafe, where they're "building relationships through food."We're not going to discuss rehabilitation or prison ministries or any of the other situations that have led to the reality of this delightful restaurant in a church in the old University Boulevard location of Ollie's BBQ. Serving lunch only Monday through Friday, Kairos Kafe indeed shares space with Grace and Truth Church, an interdenominational outreach congregation that utilizes the facility in the evenings and weekends.
Don't expect much proselytizing or evangelism with your soup and sandwich. From 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., the staff is quite serious about the food.
AMBIENCE
Friendly, casual, good food in a pleasant atmosphere.
PRICES
Salads, sandwiches and entrees, $4.95-$9.95.
DETAILS
Address: 515 University Blvd.
Telephone: 251-3101.
Hours: Lunch only. Mon.-Fri. 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Alcoholic beverages: No.
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover.
Personal checks: No.
Reservations: Not necessary. For parties of eight or more, call in advance and tables can be arranged.
Smoking: Nonsmoking throughout.
Handicapped accessible: Fully accessible.
Health Dept. rating: 96.
As a friend said, "This place reminds me of my grandmother's house in Norwood, high ceilings and lots of pictures on the walls in old frames." He added that it smelled a lot like the same. His grandmother ran a boarding house, and there was always something cooking. Pleasant memories.
About the only reminder of the restaurant's previous incarnation as Ollie's is an early photograph of the venerable barbecue establishment hanging among other historic Birmingham memorabilia.
But this is not your neighborhood BBQ hangout. Kairos offers several versions of chicken tenders, mostly grilled, with a variety of sauces. In addition, the Kafe offers several sandwiches, a half dozen salads and signature dishes that include meatballs and a fresh fish of the day. Daily specials reflect what looked good at the market.
Menu items are named for staff members, friends and supporters of the church and the dining establishment. Note the use of the letter "K" -- Kairos Kafe, Kairos Katering -- a bit kutesy, but one gets used to it.
On an early visit we tried Nelson's marvelous meatballs ($7.95). During the brief wait for our meal, we thoroughly enjoyed Granny's rolls served with Spunky Hollow Cream (a strawberry-enhanced butter). Not quite cornbread, light and almost cake-like, these muffins constituted the first special moments.
If not marvelous, the three meatballs were certainly very good. Slightly larger than golf balls, they were served in a flavorful, but not overly spicy, beef sauce. Served as a side dish, Lenora's company potatoes were coarsely mashed with skins on. Good, but not glorious.
A second side dish, a tomato and watermelon salad, was our second special moment. An interesting combination of cubed tomatoes and watermelon with chopped bell pepper, fresh basil and red onion was served cold with a light vinegar-based dressing. The staff was quick to give Southern Living credit for the original recipe. This didn't have a name attributed to it, but it was an inspired offering on a hot summer day.
Shana's chocolate krackle ($3.95, $2 for a 1/2 serving)) was a chocolate mousse-like pudding with whipped topping served cold over a crumbled brownie base. This was an ideal way to end a substantial meal.
On a follow-up visit, the fish of the day, buttermilk battered catfish nuggets ($9.95), caught our attention. Four lightly fried strips of catfish were served in an exemplary lemon butter sauce with capers. Catfish piccata? Why not? Another special moment.
For his two sides, this diner opted for Bonham's potato salad and, after a bit of coaxing, the tomato and watermelon salad. The combination sounded strange to him.
The potato salad got high marks, mustardy like at home. The tomato and watermelon salad got two thumbs-up and a my-gosh-this-is-good. Granny's rolls did not disappoint.
Bernard's Angus burger ($7.95) was a two-hander. Gouda cheese gave a nice flavor a bit more mellow than the usual Swiss or American. Served with a generous side of steak fries, the large patty was slightly overcooked, but nonetheless good.
Farrell's gospel bird chicken salad sandwich ($6.95) was a winner. A basic down-home chicken salad, it consisted of large chunks of white meat with just enough mayonnaise to hold them together. Celery, water chestnuts and a few nuts added a nice crunch. A sprinkling of Mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses and a few Mandarin orange slices made this special.
New on the menu and perhaps seasonal, Tonya's blueberry delight was a delight. Fresh blueberries mixed with a cold whipped topping over a graham cracker crust -- another special moment.
As we left the restaurant we realized we should have tried Kairos' luscious lemonade. We noted that that's just one more reason to return to Kairos Kafe.
Kwickly!
Fletcher Harvey is a freelance restaurant reviewer for The Birmingham News.