The struggle ofowning a German restaurant with a well-rooted legacy is maintaining the balancebetween tradition and authenticity and the vital need to sell a product thattoday's consumers want to buy. The menu at this Milwaukeemainstay has a wealth of wonderfully made Old Worldclassics like sauerbraten, sauerkraut, spätzle, Wiener schnitzel, sausageplates and strudel, but has very few dishes that propose a different view ofGerman food as it is today. There are contemporary recipes that make use offoodstuffs typical of the nationcabbage, game, pork, potatoes, fish andfruitsbut they're combined to create a somewhat lighter cuisine that reflectsinternational influences and modern tastes.
The ambience atRatzsch's speaks of the old country, with a dining room that is a virtualmuseum of ornate steins, expertly carved dark wooden frames and rare servingware. Unfortunately, there is such a clutter of antiques and framed photographsthat it's a bit overwhelming and difficult to appreciate them individually. Themoody, spacious bar area has a few private booths and small tables. It'scomplete with a respectable beer list, including Milwaukee's own Sprecher, and a sizableGerman wine menu. Order some of Ratzsch's hefty hand-breaded onion rings or therich German-style fondue made with baked beer, cheese and sauerkraut and servedwith rye bread toast.
With aknowledgeable, friendly wait staff, and the reassuring presence of the owners,the service at Ratzsch's is top-notch. While there will undoubtedly be aprotest, it is time the German restaurant says auf wiedersehen to the folk vests and dirndls (think bodice,blouse, skirt and apron) its servers must wear, before it becomes a parody ofitself.
Karl Ratzsch's hasspent more than a century feeding those hungry for hearty German cuisine, fromaverage Milwaukeefamilies to visiting aristocracy. Ratzsch's can stay true to Deutschland, butto avoid the fate of other traditional Old World restaurantslike John Ernst,which held the title as Milwaukee's oldest restaurant until it closed in2001it must listen to the market.
www.karlratzsch.com/ 414-276-2720/ 320 E. Mason St./ Lunch hours: Wednesday –Saturday 11:30 a.m. – 2 p.m., Dinner hours: Monday – Saturday 4:30 p.m. –close.
